Every winter the little town of Mohács hosts a week-long festival called Busójárás (sounds like "Boo-show- yar-ah-sh," literally: the walking of the Busó). Busó are typically men dressed in animal pelts adorned with cowbells, wearing carved wooden masks and usually carrying wooden noisemakers, pitchforks, and/or whips.
This is a Busó
Busójárás is typically celebrated in February, but is tied to the Roman Catholic calendar, always ending on the seventh Sunday before Easter. So, this year it wasn't until early March. We caught the last day of the festival which begins with a parade and ends with a huge bonfire.
Boats full of Busó paddle their way across the Danube to kick off the walk into the city center.
There are variations on the origin of this tradition, but it has most frequently been explained to me by Hungarians that it is to "scare away winter."
One origin story of the festival, dating to the Turkish occupation of Hungary, tells that displaced Hungarians and Croatians dressed in Busó costumes to scare the Turks out of Mohács. While none of my Hungarian friends endorse this story (often pointing out that they actually lost that battle), it is not uncommon to see references to this legend in the decorations and costumes.
A Busó carrying the head of a "Turk"
The "walk" features groups of Busó from Mohács as well as other cities and villages from Hungary and the nearby countries of Croatia, Serbia, and Slovenia.
Street musicians in costume
It is similar to a parade, but most spectators walk alongside the Busó, snapping pictures and getting teased. It is very common for the Busó to be silly, sometimes spraying water out of their masks or just chasing lovely young ladies. There is not a parade route in the sense that we would think of one in the US, rather there are many streets filled with Busó wandering throughout the city until the main event later that evening.
Winter's coffin
Busó sculpture
me and a little Busó
In the main square, a stage in front of the town hall features singers and dancers. Throughout the square there are plenty of Busó to admire.
my friend Peter poses with a Busó
two Busó carrying a large horn
every few minutes we could hear this canon being fired
these Busó were being pulled along on a spinning platform
The main event of the final day is the huge bonfire in the main square. "Winter" is ceremoniously burned in effigy.
Goodbye winter!
