Fall Break 2008: Salzburg, Austria (Oct 26 - Oct 31)

I lived and studied in Salzburg in the fall of 2004 during my undergraduate studies. This was my first visit back since then and the city is as beautiful as ever. As soon as our bus arrived back in Budapest from Romania, Jon and I hopped on a metro to the train station and began our journey to Austria. It was quite early when we arrived so we first explored the city as the sun was still rising.

a chilly morning view from the Mönchsberg

the Salzach River

Mozartsteg Bridge

We stayed with my former host family, Annette and her two children, Sophia and Christian. Monday night we visited Hellbrunn Palace. It is situated just outside the city and surrounded by beautiful gardens.

Christian leading the way to Hellbrunn Palace

gardens at Hellbrunn

We took a guided tour of the Wasserspiele ("Water Games"). Built in the 17th century under Archbishop Markus Sittikus von Hohenems, these trick fountains and water-powered toy theatre was a fun stop.

a fountain in the Wasserspiele

I think visiting Salzburg after Transylvania added an additional layer of appreciation to our time there. At times during our travels through Romania our rooms were heated with wood stoves were advised to never drink the water. I remember Salzburg feeling luxurious in 2004, but this was even better. In addition to physical comfort, it was such a joy to reconnect with Annette and the kids.

Annette, Christian, Sophia, Kyung Woo (a schoolmate of Christian's)

For Jon, cooking was the favorite luxury in Salzburg. To thank Annette for her hospitality, we insisted on making the family dinner one night. The meal (handmade orecchiette with vodka sauce) was such a success, Jon was welcomed into the kitchen to make food as often as he liked. I think it was after he made cannellini bean soup that Christian asked Annette if they could adopt Jon into their family.

Sophia learns how to make orecchiette

Other trip highlights include: spending all our Euros at the chocolate factory in Grödig, an afternoon at the art museum with Annette, Christian's adorable attempts at card tricks, picnic lunches in the city, and coffee in Austrian coffeehouses. I can't wait to go back.

view of the city at dusk

from Mozartsteg Bridge at night

Fall Break 2008: Kalotaszentkirály, Romania (Oct 25)

Csipkebogyó Lekvár (Rose Hip Jam) Festival in Kalotaszentkirály

A rose hip branch adorned the entrance to the village hall

Our last night in Romania was spent in Kalotaszentkirály. The evening

began with a large dinner together, then on to a wonderful evening of music and dancing. The guest of honor at the celebration was rose hip jam. The village hall was decorated with rose hip branches above the doorways and on the walls. The whole village turned out for the event, which began with the announcement of the winner of the rose hip jam competition. Prizes were awarded for the top five entries. Next came the folk dancing show. Different age level groups showcased their fancy steps and traditional clothing.

The first dancers were the older and more accomplished ones in the group. In the background you could see the faces of younger dancers peeking through the curtains and watching in amazement.

a short clip from the opening dance

Eventually the younger children danced too and before long the show was over and it was time for everyone to put on their dancing shoes.

curtain call for the performers


The musicians spread out across the stage and anyone interested moved towards the front of the hall for a crash course in some basic steps. The music and dancing went on well into the morning hours.

the musicians

Throughout the evening dancers would show off their steps for the crowd. This boy in particular loved the spotlight.

Fall Break 2008: Korond, Romania (Oct 24)

Korond (Corund) is a small town famous throughout Romania and Hungary for their traditional Transylvanian pottery.

During our stop, we were given a short tour of the factory where pieces are made and painted by hand. It was a small, intimate tour that felt more like peeking into someone's garage workshop than a "factory tour."





one of the large brick kilns

some finished pieces in the front shop

Fall Break 2008: Gymesközéplok, Romania (Oct 23)

We made two stops in Gymesközéplok, a collection of traditional Csángó villages tucked in the valleys of the Gyimes mountains. In the 1700's these villages were settled by Székely people and have changed little over the past 300 years.



As we drove into the little village, we passed many horse-drawn carts with people curious about our brightly-colored van in their neighborhood. My favorite "lottery shot" from the bus was of a man and his bike on top of a cart full of hey.







We stopped at a small home where we got a peak inside a typical Gyimesi Csángó house. The grandmother greeted us at the entrance and her family graciously let us step inside their one-room living space heated by a wood stove.





Upon arriving at our second stop, we were greeted with traditional music performed by people in traditional costumes. After some pálinka, wine and appetizers we walked to the old Hungarian-Romanian border just down the road. Along the old border stood some ruins of an old fortress.

railroad tracks at the old border


view from the fortress ruins


We returned to where we had our snack and gathered outside to watch some traditional folk dancing.

Hajni, our program director, translated the lyrics from Hungarian to English for the songs with words.



After the demonstrations, we were all invited to join in. We were taught a few basic steps and also learned a group dance. At the end anyone who wanted to joined in and danced to the live music.

After the dancing we ate dinner and the musicians serenaded us inside as well. It was a wonderful day of music and culture.

Fall Break 2008: Máréfalva, Romania (Oct. 23)

A typical Székely gate

In the small village of Máréfalva (Satu Mare) nearly every entrance is marked by a large wooden gate. These traditional Székely Gates are the first to be constructed, even before the house is built, and are a unique feature of the Székely region. They are typically carved and painted with flower motifs as well as other traditional symbols. Though they exist in other Hungarian communities, they are the most elaborate and abundant in Székely regions in Romania.

The top is shingled and hollow with openings to house spirits to bless those who enter. The traditional inscription on this gate reads:

"ISTEN HOZOTT ~ HA MÉSZ ~ ISTEN LEGYEN VELED."
[God has brought you. If you leave, may God be with you.]

Fall Break 2008: Zetelaka, Romania (Oct. 22-24)

A short note about our favorite hosts in Romania...

Imre and Anikó

Our second and third nights in Romania were spent in the town of Zetelaka (Zetea) with Imre and Anikó. When we first arrived they dressed in traditional costumes and greeted our whole group with pálinka, a special kind of Hungarian/Transylvanian brandy. Afterwards the group split off to different families in town, but Hajni, Margie, Hanna, Jon and I stayed with Imre and Anikó. With as much traveling as we did during the day, it was nice to come back to the same place two nights in a row. The food was delicious and their hospitality felt like we were staying with old friends. They shared pictures of their grandchildren and we marveled at the huge trophy Anikó had taken home from a cooking competition. If and when I return to Romania, I will be sure to stop in Zetelaka to see them again.

Fall Break 2008: Segesvár, Romania (Oct. 22)

Segesvár (Sighişoara) is a medieval fortified city. It is amazingly well-preserved and absolutely beautiful.

The landmark clock tower was built in 1360 and stands tall atop the entrance to the citadel.

Segesvár is the only fortified city in Romania that is still inhabited.

It is also the birthplace of Vlad III, Prince of Wallachia,
a.k.a Vlad Ţepeș ["Vlad the Impaler"],
a.k.a Drăculea ["Dracula"].



A covered staircase within the citadel leads to an even more fortified portion of the city where a school, church, and cemetery are located.

covered staircase entrance


looking down from the top of the staircase


view from the top of the hill


Some pictures from the cemetery...